Fez / Morocco Board News– Since my arrival in Fes I’ve imagined what it would be like to enter al-Qarawiyine university. Al-Qarawiyine is why Fes is called medinat l-‘ilm: ‘the city of knowledge’. Constructed 1200 years ago, it was, for centuries, a great center of learning for scholars, mainly Muslim but also Jewish, from Islamic Spain, North Africa and Sub-Saharan Africa. Its prominence has declined in the past 100 years, but it is still home to a vibrant community of Islamic scholars. Al-Qarawiyine has an imposing presence in the Old Fes. Physically it is huge. It is one of the city’s largest landmarks, something you notice most when forced to navigate around its perimeter, dodging donkeys and hustlers along the way. Culturally, you notice its impact in how Fessis speak. Unlike most Moroccans, native Fessis, and especially those who live in the old Medina, converse readily in Classical Arabic, the language of Islam. Their speech emphasizes the already prominent sense of religiosity that permeates the medina’s alleyways. All of this emanates from Al-Qarawiyine and its centuries of religious tradition.
As a student of Islam, I couldn’t help but be drawn to such a place. The image of me sitting at the foot of some great Islamic scholar, in a halqa or study circle, frequently entered my mind this year. The experience of a traditional Islamic education appealed to me, knowing that it was something I couldn’t get in America. Additionally, it would give me a new and very rich understanding of Islam, the study of which I hope to make a lifelong pursuit. So I ask a friend of mine with experience studying at al-Qarawiyine to explain exactly what a traditional Islamic education would entail.
Niaz, now living in Turkey, was an English teacher at the American center in Fes and had lived in the Old Medina for a little over 5 years. Along with teaching English, Niaz pursued studies in the classical Islamic tradition with Sheikhs in and around Fes.
One day I met with him to talk about his studies. He explained to my that in Morocco, Islamic scholars follow a particular curriculum that starts with Arabic language study and moves along to different areas of specialization, just as religious law or speculative theology. As he said, “the first step is Arabic, which is the miftah u’lum ad-din, or the key to the religious sciences. Without Arabic you have nothing.”
Working within the Islamic tradition requires absolute mastery of Arabic. As a religious scholar you interpret the Qu’ran, Islam’s holy text, which is written in Arabic and believed to be the word of God. In order to understand this word to the extent they are able, scholars first study books on grammar, syntax, rhetoric and logic.
Mastery of these subjects prepare yourself to understand all of the more specialized subjects. Quranic commentary and Islamic law are based on linguistics and logic. Without a solid foundation in Arabic, you can’t engage with the Islamic intellectual tradition. How do you ensure mastery? Memorization.
“Your time with the sheikh is spent listening to him explain the parts the text you’re working on,” Niaz explained, “and then you go home and memorize it. Once you memorize a complete text you move on to its commentary, and you follow that progression: learning, understanding and then memorizing.”
Memorization is looked down upon in America’s education system. We try to create ‘independent thinkers’ and ‘critical thinkers’ and the we perceive ‘rote memorization’ as impeding these goals. If you memorize, you’re not thinking and you end up merely reproducing the information you’ve learned rather than synthesizing it into new, fresh ideas. I witnessed this firsthand in my classroom this year. My students could repeat the previous week’s lecture word for word. But when asked a critical thinking question or given a task that required them to synthesize information, they struggled immensely. The Islamic ideal falls somewhere in between.
Notice how Niaz described the learning process: “learning, understanding and then memorizing.” An Islamic scholar is not expect to merely reproduce what he’s learned, he’s expected to apply that knowledge to new and unique intellectual situations. Memorization only comes after you understand what you’re learning and how to use it. That information is then internalized so that it can be more quickly synthesized with other information, external or internal, to respond to a given intellectual situation. The Islamic scholar has the potential to be a synthesizer and critical thinker because of, not despite, his reliance on memorized information.
There’s something romantic about becoming this kind of intellectual: an unmediated world of information available to you at all times. No dependence on books or computers; information and ideas fused to your very being.
Technology has made an indelible impression on our relationship with information. Are the changes it has wrought necessarily good? Am I the only person who feels ashamed by my dependence on a calculator or on Google to give me the text of the Gettysburg Address? Can I truly participate in an intellectual culture if I have to look up its fundamental and most influential ideas online or in a reference book? Does that make me an independent thinker?
Needless to say, Niaz had me hooked.
Muslims believe that certain people have the gift of light from God, a certain special charisma that not only enraptures ordinary people but also guides them towards or along the straight path. Of everyone I know, Niaz has that light. It was he who helped a friend of mine convert to Islam, and it was he who helped me decide to stay in Morocc to pursue a traditional Islamic education.
http://www.moroccoboard.com/viewpoint/367-matt-schumann/5394-morocco-traditional-muslim-education
