Grimsby telegraph
Tucked away beneath the historic balconies on Alexandra Road, Mark Page tries out the sensory and flavour overload of Fez.
Elaborate design and exotic flavours are the order of the day at Fez, in Cleethorpes Morocco, at least in the movies, is a place to either hide or be hidden. Casablanca’s Rick Blaine, James Bond, Jason Bourne, Ethan Hunt of Mission: Impossible – they’ve all found solace, or chased secreted MacGuffins, at one time or another amid the alluring mystique of the gateway to Africa.
It’s a quality one of Cleethorpes’ latest themed restaurants, Fez, takes rather literally through no fault of its own. It opened in March but I had no idea of its existence until a few weeks ago, tucked away as it is beneath the cast and wrought iron arcade and balcony of the Grade II listed 19th Century terraces on Alexandra Road – one of the resort’s prettier landmarks, at least the parts that are well maintained.
Once a takeaway with garish blue and white signage, it’s now a bazaar of black and gold with tiny panes of stained glass above the windows that effortlessly slips into the old arcade like a velvet glove. So much so, it’s almost camouflaged – nobody else I spoke to had noticed it either though we may just be worryingly unobservant.
The lavish interior at Fez, in Cleethorpes
But dodge my ever-eager mouth any longer it would not so, on a gloomy Sunday evening, a friend and I went in search of Mediterranean enrichment to liven the spirits.
An extravagant labour of love
If it’s all too easy to miss on the outside, Fez more than compensates on the inside. It’s like someone wearing a suit with a loud shirt and pink shorts underneath. We were greeted by a lavish lounge area adorned with huge bohemian cushions, while extravagant whirling patterns bombard the view from patterned floor to ornate ceiling.
The rich, luxurious colours extend right through the dining area and there is no escaping the sensory overload. Rows of flamboyant lampshades cast flowery shadows across the room as glittering vases and shiny ornaments adorn walls and shelves. A faint aromatic whiff of exotic spices tantalises the nostrils. It’s clearly a labour of love – there’s usually something overlooked in these sort of themed restaurants but even the radiators are painted black and the toilets join in the flashy party.
Chicken tagine with couscous at Fez, in Cleethorpes
Despite being fairly late, so hardly teeming with customers, the décor is so busy it felt vibrant and lively nonetheless. Of course, it’s no good if the substance doesn’t match the style so, seated on our golden chairs, we perused the menu.
Cuisine Marocaine
It’s not the most extensive selection I’ve seen at a Mediterranean place but there are some intriguing options.
We dodged the starters, likely to our detriment, as in hindsight they seem among the most interesting creations. Sharing plates dominate, with appetiser boards priced between £10.95 and £12.95 taking in meat, fish and veggie selections taking in everything from spicy sausage and smoked cheese to king prawns, aubergine zaalouk and flat breads.
Territorial diners wanting something of their own can opt for the likes of Moules a la Marocaine – mussels for Francophobes – a medley of seafood with a pancake and grilled halloumi with warm bread, all £5.50 or less.
Brochettes with side salad and couscous at Fez, in Cleethorpes
Mains largely come in five categories – tagines, couscous, brochettes, fish and tapas, however that last finger food option is only served Sunday to Thursday.
Being to Moroccan what pizza is to Italian, I’d decided on a tagine before I even walked through the door. There are no fewer than six varieties to choose from and each has its own personality and is cooked with differing spices and sauces.
Exotic flavours
I settled on chicken (£12.95), which theatrically arrived with the traditional conical earthenware on before being swiftly taken away the moment it was set on the table.
On first taste, I’m hit with the second sensory shock of the evening – a piercing citrus kick from the bubbling broth. I fear the overpowering lemon will leave me red faced and watery-eyed but the concoction soon settles down and the true array of tastes shines through.
Just as well as saffron is pricey and exotic enough to deserve a good showing and, in unison with caramelised onion, the mixture is packed a lovely tang with distinctive floral undertones. Meanwhile, the poultry was generous and tender, in chunks large enough for two or three mouthfuls.
Chocolate brownie with ice cream at Fez, in Cleethorpes
As for the accompanying couscous, it’s not something I’ve ever been a fan of but felt compelled to order it for authenticity and on the off chance it would sway me towards it. It was decent enough, light and not clumpy but, for me, too grainy to match the indulgent textures of the tagine. Chips and salad are available as alternatives.
My friend ordered chicken brochettes (£12.95) with couscous and side salad. It came with a choice of dip so he felt compelled to seek a recommendation from our waitress. She suggested garlic butter, he ran with it and was suitably impressed with the results. It “went well” with flatbread was the verdict.
Cheesecake with ice cream at Fez, in Cleethorpes
The brochettes, two of them, came presented on the aforementioned bread and each bore a quartet of sizeable poultry chunks skewered, lightly seasoned and served brimming with the same kind of heavily-embalmed flavour that made my tagine such a winner.
Luxurious desserts
By the time we’d finished, we were the only two customers left, perched in a state of absolute relaxation in our corner near the window as the gloom set in outside creating a scene like a misguided clone of an Edward Hopper painting.
We had perhaps become too much part of the furniture as the sun had long since set before it was noticed we had finished our mains and desserts were offered. However, rather than being unbearably awkward, it was in these latter moments of the meal I fell for Fez.
The decorative mint tea at Fez, in Cleethorpes
Leaning back, I couldn’t help but watch the staff clearing up as the night drew to a close. It offered a candid glimpse of the pride they have in their restaurant. It already looked immaculate but I watched as a shelf was dusted and a vase replaced, then straightened with endearing pedantry.
When our desserts arrived, they summed this meticulousness up perfectly. My chocolate brownie (£4.50) wasn’t just chucked in a bowl, it was carefully heated and presented on a plate with swirls of sauce and a trio of blueberries lined up like Orion’s Belt – heaven on a plate.
Fez location and opening hours
Fez – Moroccan & Mediterranean Restaurant is located at 40 Alexandra Road, Cleethorpes, DN35 8LE. Call 01472 562384 for bookings.
Opening hours
Monday: Closed
Tuesday: 5pm-10pm
Wednesday: 5pm-10pm
Thursday: 5pm-10pm
Friday: 5pm-10.30pm
Saturday: 5pm-10.30pm
Sunday: 5pm-10pm
My friend’s neat circle of cheesecake (£4.50) generously topped with raspberries and that blueberry garnish was also well received. We also enjoyed the accompanying scoops of luxurious vanilla ice cream. Alongside a coffee and a beautifully-presented mint tea in all its shiny, ornamental glory, it was hard not to find the whole experience anything but wholly enjoyable.
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The verdict
Moroccan meals are rarely the cheapest though this was at the more wallet-friendly end of the spectrum. I was initially surprised at a bill that, along with a couple of beers, ended up at around £25 each but then I remembered I recently shelled out the same for a small pasta dish, a half-size bottle of Peroni, a tiny coffee and a sliver of cheesecake wedged between a part of Lotus Biscoffs at a particularly raucous and uninspiring Pizza Express.
Fez is the reason why independent restaurants are there to be cherished. It may be a little hidden, but it truly stands out where it counts.
