IT’S no secret how much I love lamb – being the son of a lamb farmer, it would seem almost disloyal to be so fond of any other meat.
Despite the obvious bias, there’s no disputing lamb’s versatility. Slow-roasted, barbequed, grilled or braised, there’s a cut for any cooking method and occasion.
It also marries well with an array of flavours – be it the Anglo favourites of peas and mint, the aromatic dried rigani and lemon that characterise many Greek lamb dishes or the tangy yoghurt and fragrant garam masala that make lamb biryani so irresistible.
A country I’m fascinated with is Morocco. I’ve yet to travel there, although I’ve long been intrigued by the distinctive flavours of its cuisine – tangy-salty-sour preserved lemons, juicy olives, dried fruits, flower waters and an array of spices that boggles the mind.
Think cinnamon, saffron, cumin, coriander and ginger, along with ras el hanout which translates as “head of the shop”. This more literally means “best of the shop” and is a combination of any number of spices including cardamon, mace, nutmeg, ginger and anise.
Matt Moran rolls the lamb in a tight parcel to form the pastilla.
Lamb features widely on the Moroccan table, from kefta to lamb tagines, and it’s these dishes and flavours I’ve channeled for today’s lamb pastilla.
A pastilla (variously also known as b’stilla, bastille and bisteeya) is an elaborate pie made with an unusual combination of savoury and sweet flavours – the filling is heavy with savoury spices, while the top is dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.
Frying the lamb pastilla. Picture: Tim Hunter
It’s made with brik pastry (also known as warka), which is available from Middle Eastern grocers and some delicatessens.
Brik has a slightly crisper texture than filo, but if it’s difficult for you to get, filo will do the job. If you do go to the trouble of hunting down the pastry, take the opportunity to stock up on fresh spices while you’re at it, along with a stash of preserved lemons.
Dusting the lamb pastilla with icing sugar. Picture: Tim Hunter
Traditional pastilla is filled with tender braised and shredded pigeon, although chicken and lamb are common fillings too.
The lamb-lover in me clearly points me in that direction. Here I’ve used minced lamb, which makes for a quicker version of the dish.
I’d suggest asking your butcher to coarsely mince some forequarter for you. It’s a working muscle and as such is well-flavoured and has just the right ratio of fat.
You can make the filling a day ahead if you like and that way the flavours will develop. And you can be a step ahead on the day. All that’s left to do is assemble, bake and enjoy this exotic pie. Morocco, here I come.
Matt Moran is co-owner/chef of ARIA,
Web ariarestaurant.com
Phone 9252 2555;
Chiswick Woollahra,
Web chiswickrestaurant.com.au
Phone 8388 8688
mattmoran.com.au
Delicious lamb pastilla
Preparation time 10 min
Cooking time 1 hour
Serves 6
Ingredients
300ml chicken stock
1 pinch saffron
4 tbs olive oil
250g minced lamb
1 brown onion (peeled and finely chopped)
1 pinch of ground cloves
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
50g currants
1/4 preserved lemon (diced)
1/4 bunch of parsley (chopped)
1/4 bunch coriander (chopped)
80g slivered almonds (toasted)
30g butter (melted)
6 sheets brik pastry
1 tsp icing sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
Method
1 Pre-heat the oven to 180C.
2 Place the chicken stock and saffron into a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and leave to infuse.
3 Put 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a frying pan and heat, add lamb when it is hot and fry until lamb is browned. Remove from the frying pan and place in a colander over a bowl so any excess fat can drain away.
4 In a heavy-based saucepan heat the remaining olive oil over a medium heat and add the chopped onion, cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until it has softened. Add the clove, cinnamon and lamb and pour in the infused chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and cook slowly for 15 to 20 minutes. The chicken stock will have evaporated at this point. Add the currants and diced rind of the preserved lemon, season with a little salt and pepper and then add the chopped herbs. Remove from heat and leave to cool for 30 minutes.
To fill and roll the pastillas:
1 Lay out 6 sheets of the brik pastry on the bench and brush with melted butter. Divide the lamb mix between the 6 sheets of pastry. Roll the lamb in the pastry to form a tight parcel.
To cook the pastillas:
1 Pour a tablespoon of olive oil into a frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, cook the pastillas on each side for two minutes.
2 Remove the pastillas from the frying pan and place on a baking tray. Bake in the pre-heated oven for 4 minutes.
3 Remove from the oven when the pastillas have a nice golden colour and the pastry is very crisp.
4 Remove from the baking tray and drain on paper towel, dust with a little icing sugar and ground cinnamon. Serve.
- MATT MORAN
- The Sunday Telegraph
