The Liverpool Post
La Sultana, Morocco
Jonathan Brown enjoys the delights of exotic short-haul – in old Marrakech
THE medieval medina in old Marrakech is such a tumultuous assault on the senses that it almost dictates the requirement for a luxury bolthole away from the manic crowd – somewhere to recharge batteries, indulge in more than a little luxury and reflect on this most romantic and exotic of short-haul destinations.
Marrakech – the beating heart of Morocco and for centuries a Saharan crossroad which linked mountain and plain, desert and ocean – is a heady swirling mix of colour and culture bathed in beautiful bright light and in history and charm.
Its lure for visitors in the 21st century is easy to identify: the remains of its 16th century glory; the labyrinthine alleys of its souks; its blissful climate (for most of the year); as much shopping as you can manage; and, not least, the kind of value for money you only really get once you’ve left Europe.
It also offers a range of accommodation to suit most pockets – from large, somewhat characterless hotels to historic riads buried in the heart of the old city, known as the medina.
Our bolthole was the luxurious La Sultana, a boutique five-star hotel converted out of four historic riads and just a short walk from the famous Jemaa el-Fna square, which lies at the heart of the medina.
La Sultana is less a hotel and more a work of art – lovingly restored and furnished, exquisitely embellished by the work of traditional master craftsmen and with the very highest standards of service.
The cool, marbled interior, soothingly silent but for the tinkle of fountains, seems a world away from the dusty bustle of the streets outside.
The rooftop terrace is an oasis of peace softly punctuated by the call of the muezzin from nearby mosques.
La Sultana is, in fact, everything a hotel should be – an authentic pleasure palace where, within hours, one can feel one’s cares sloughing away like an old skin.
One of the finest hotels I’ve encountered in 25 years of travelling the world.
A large part of its appeal is unquestionably that contrast with the frenetic world outside – dusty streets filled with hawkers and traders; snake-charmers and henna tattooists; the crowded alleys of the souks. La Sultana is an island of calm in a swirling sea of humanity.
Marrakech is probably not to everyone’s tastes but, once armed with just a sliver of adventure, is unquestionably one of the most fun and fascinating cities on the short-haul beat.
Any exploration has to start with Jemaa el-Fna – known locally as La Place – from which the souks spread outwards in a warren of covered and open alleys.
My best advice on souks is simply to get lost in them. You will anyway – so you might as well enjoy it. Local hustlers (if ever I was recruiting a sales force for a business I’d head straight to Marrakech) will call after you, offer to guide you and advise you. Shrug them away with a smile if you’re not interested and, if you are interested, then haggle like hell. And don’t be afraid to walk away.
The joy of the souks is never knowing what’s round the next corner. And, if shopping is your thing, then seriously consider your luggage allowance on return. Once you start, you might struggle to stop.
The historic highlights of the city can be done in two or three days – largely on foot – and are worth seeking out. The Medersa Ben Youssef, a beautifully decorated 16th century Koranic school tucked away in the souk, is open to the public, as is the El-Badi Palace, an immense partial ruin, also built in the 16th century.
Nearby the palace are the Saadian Tombs, largely forgotten until rediscovered in 1917 and the resting place of one Morocco’s most powerful sultanic dynasties.
The museum – Musee de Marrakech – is located in a 19th century palace, built round a splendid courtyard, and shows a range of temporary collections of historic and contemporary Moroccan arts.
Nearby and a must visit destination is the remarkably low-key Maison de la Photographie, which has a collection of 3,500 astonishing early photographs of Moroccan life and prints which can be bought for just a few pounds.
One of the joys of the city is the food. Moroccan cuisine is a wonderful fusion of French and indigenous Berber and Arab styles. The range of restaurants and prices – from top end a la carte such as that offered by La Sultana to street food in the main square (which turns into a massive outdoor restaurant after dark) – represents a foodie’s playground. Locally produced wine is both good and reasonably priced (though not available at every restaurant, so check).
Is there a bad side to Marrakech? I can’t think of one. It’s close enough to justify a long city break weekend and big enough to happily spend a week. It’s my kind of town.
Factfile
La Sultana is a member of Great Hotels of the World Luxury Collection. Rooms start from £217.00.
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