The Guardian
• Top 10 riads in Marrakech
The balcony at Riad Idrissy in Fez
Morocco’s riads offer an authentic, affordable taste of the country and our picks – with stays in Fez, Meknès and Moulay Idriss – are perfect for exploring city neighbourhoods and Berber towns
The ancient riad’s cathedral-height courtyard is resplendent with zellij tiles and ornate stucco – and cook and designer Robert Johnstone has decorated the five suites with characterful antique finds from around the country. You’ll get a kaftan and babouche to laze around in and in the morning a flask of tea or coffee is left outside your room, before a breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs-to-order and a basket of freshly baked local breads in the wonderful Ruined Garden restaurant next door, on the balcony, or in the library. Johnstone is opening a cooking school next year, where you can learn to conjure up your own Moroccan feast.
• Doubles from €110 B&B, +212 649 191 410, riadidrissy.com
Dar Finn, Fez
During the long restoration, owners Rebecca Eve and Paul O’Sullivan kept the opulent Fassi look in the main house and courtyard and have added a lighter, brighter Andalucían-style annexe. Two of the four rooms (named after gates in the medina) are large enough for families, as are the two grand suites – the Pacha suite is the former office of the Pacha of Tazi – which have private terraces. You can try homemade Moroccan dishes in the dining room, which spills out into the plant-filled walled garden, complete with plunge pool. Then drink in the views over Fez from the multi-level roof terrace, with a cold drink from the honesty bar.
• Doubles from €87 B&B, +212 655 018 975, darfinn.com
Dar Roumana, Fez
In a quiet corner of the medina, this beautifully restored residence has five sumptuous suites, all showcasing the work of Fez’s famous artisans. The Yasmina suite is arguably the most romantic with its enormous four-poster bed, but they all have carved cedar-wood ceilings, mosaic tile floors and intricate plasterwork, as well as organic Moroccan toiletries in the en suite bathrooms. Breakfast is served on the roof terrace with show-stopping views across the medina or you can curl up in front of the open fire in the library. The patio is home to one of Fez’s finest restaurants and French chef Vincent Bonin’s daily-changing, market-fresh menu.
• Doubles from €85 B&B, +212 535 741 637, darroumana.com
Riad Anata, Fez
This riad has been given a light, contemporary feel by Valérie Janczewski, the Belgian owner who splits her time between living in Madrid and Fez, when she’s not working in Africa. The five rooms come with pale tadelakt walls and splashes of vibrant colour – which give the rooms their name – from rugs, blankets and local art. Valérie has put together a short city guide that is full of insiders’ tips. You can relax with a glass of mint tea and a homemade sweet treat on the rooftop terrace – where there’s plenty of lounging space and a plunge pool to cool off in – or on a hot pink armchair in the patio.
• Doubles from €98 B&B, +212 535 741 537, riad-anata.com
Riad Laaroussa, Fez
The tree-shaded courtyard garden of this 17th-century palace is like an oasis from the medina’s mayhem. It had fallen into disrepair before being rescued by its French-American owners who, with help from Fez’s finest craftsmen, restored archways, columns, ornate woodwork and stunning mosaics, created eight palatial suites and rooms, all with lofty ceilings and exquisite decor – some even have fireplaces. Breakfast is served on the often sun-drenched terrace, and you can join the local chefs on trips to the market, before a free cooking class in the enormous kitchen. And after a hard day’s sightseeing, there’s no better place to unwind than its traditional hammam.
• Doubles from €115 B&B, +212 674 187 639, riad-laaroussa.com
Riad Felloussia, Meknès
Escape the hubbub of Fez for the smaller, more manageable imperial city of Meknès and its magnificent monuments. Set in the heart of the Unesco-listed medina, close to the Place el Hedim and the ornate Bab Mansour, the riad’s owner Lionel Westerski has filled the five suites – some of which are split-level – with his global finds, mixing up Berber rugs with African art. There’s plenty of space to relax, too: the central courtyard comes complete with a tinkling fountain and lots of greenery, there’s a large salon and a terrace overlooking the old city’s rooftops that’s perfect for sundowners.
• Doubles from €80 B&B, +212 535 530 840, riadfelloussia.com
Ryad Bahia, Meknès
This part 11th-century, part 18th-century riad is tucked down a narrow derb, a stone’s throw from the main square, the souks and the unmissable Dar Jamai museum. English-speaking Bouchra and her husband Abdel, both well-travelled guides to Meknès and beyond, have lovingly restored their family house, creating an exotic home-from-home dotted with colourful heirlooms. Step through the imposing doorway into a pretty courtyard – three of the seven simply furnished rooms and mini-suites are in the oldest part of the house. There’s a rooftop garden with views over the medina and a Moroccan table d’hôte, and the owners will happily fill you in on the city’s history.
• Doubles from €60 B&B, +212 535 554 541, ryad-bahia.com
Dar Zerhoune, Moulay Idriss
Perched on a hilltop overlooking the holy city of Moulay Idriss, Dar Zerhoune is the perfect spot to relax and recharge, yet it’s only 90 minutes from Fez and 20 minutes from Meknès. The owner Rose Button fell for this peaceful spot six years ago, renovated the dar and decorated the six rooms and salons in a minimalist, modern-Moroccan style. Head to the roof terrace for a long, leisurely breakfast – and lunch and dinner on request – overlooking the jumble of whitewashed houses and across the plains to the Roman city of Volubilis. You can even have a picnic delivered to the ruins by donkey.
• Doubles from €50 B&B, +212 642 247 793, darzerhoune.com
Dar Kamal Chaoui, Bhalil
Photograph: David Aubert
Béatrice and Kamal Chaoui have turned their home in this tranquil, off-the-tourist-track village – around 15 miles from Fez and just over three miles from Sefrou – into a delightful B&B. The four eclectically decorated rooms are filled with regional touches: intricately painted wooden doors and straw donkey panniers make unusual headboards and hand-woven blankets keep out the mountain chill. The roof terrace is the perfect spot to soak up the sun and views over Bhalil’s famous cave houses. It lies in the foothills of Jebel Kandar and Kamal leads hikes through the mountains, from easy rambles to serious treks. Order a home-cooked Moroccan dinner for the perfect end to the day.
• Doubles from €55 B&B, +212 678 838 310, kamalchaoui.com
Dar Attamani, Sefrou
The Berber town of Sefrou was a stopping-off point for trading caravans crossing from the Mediterranean to the Sahara and its picturesque medina even predates Fez. A cultural mix, it was home to one of Morocco’s largest Jewish communities. Hidden away down a tangle of alleyways, this 19th-century Jewish merchant’s house has been turned into an atmospheric guesthouse. The five rooms have kept their original features: beamed ceilings, tiled floors, wrought-iron window screens and stained-glass panels. In warm weather, you can even sleep under the stars and a Berber blanket on the brightly painted roof terrace, where breakfast is served.
• Doubles from €30 B&B, roof terrace beds from €10 B&B, +212 645 298 930, darattamani.com
