SARAH MACWHIRTER
Take tea at the five-star hotel La Mamounia in Marrakesh.
Daniela Cubelic, owner of Silk Road Tea in Victoria’s historic Chinatown, has travelled the world to understand the rituals that reflect the cultures in which tea is brewed. Travel editor Sarah MacWhirter talked with her about tea and travel over a cuppa.
When did you first travel for tea?
I went to Turkey when I was 19, and I became totally entranced with their tea rituals. I was planning a career in the foreign service, going to university and studying with a Chinese tea master on the side in Richmond. I took a trip to Europe, took a detour to Turkey, and when I was there I fell in love with Turkish tea culture. It turned into an exploration of tea. I would say, ‘Never mind about the carpets, how do you brew your tea? Where do I buy those tea sets? They’re not for tourists – but where can I find them?’ At 22 I opened [Silk Road Tea]. … Because I studied with Chinese and Taiwanese tea masters, I had access to very high quality teas. A few years ago I realized I did become an ambassador, but not in the traditional sense.
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You’ve travelled to about a dozen countries in pursuit of tea and tea rituals. Which one made the strongest impression?
I love Moroccan tea – I love Morocco, actually! The tea ritual is like stepping into an Arab fairy tale. Of course, Morocco is an Islamic country, they don’t drink alcohol. Their tea ritual has the same tone as some of our gatherings with alcohol. People will say, ‘Come over for tea,’ not ‘Come over for a glass of wine.’ It’s very convivial. Moroccan tea is sometimes referred to as Berber whisky because it’s really strong and is served in shot glasses.
You experience Moroccan tea in clear glasses. The tea is made in a silver pot with an elongated tulip spout which gives a nice pour. They’ll pour very, very high, and raise the pot up and down. It actually aerates the tea, you get little bubbles. It’s very beautiful.
The tea itself is green tea with spearmint. There’s one type of tea Morocco gets from China called gunpowder. They mix it with spearmint grown in Morocco and with sugar. The tradition in Morocco is to serve it with pastries.
I have had a lifetime of many incredible cups of tea, but [in Morocco] I had what is one of my most memorable cups of tea – anywhere – ever. After a long day of trekking via camel into the desert, the brisk taste of intense green tea, coupled with the refreshing burst of fresh mint, was particularly rejuvenating. We finally had a well deserved cup of tea in the early evening as the sun began to set, and the desert air started to cool.
Their hospitality is lavish. You really should accept more than one cup of tea!
What country surprised you?
France has more of a tea culture than people realize. There’s quite a lot of tea drinking in the salon culture. Where in the UK tea has been about the ritual, and with less varieties of tea, in France they’re much more interested in the connoisseurship of tea. The French have been focused on high quality of tea, loose teas to varietals, and tea appreciation.
THE BEST PLACES TO TAKE TEA IN MOROCCO
You can get delightful tea service at the most humble establishments, but the fancier hotels and restaurants have a beautiful settings and more ornate teapots and tea glasses.
La Mamounia is a five-star hotel and spa in Marrakesh surrounded by lush, serene gardens and offers a lovely high-end tea service. mamounia.com
For something a little different, indulge in a tea and spa service. It’s quite common to receive a cup of tea, at least, after a spa service or trip to a hammam (steam bath). At Les Bains De Marrakech, a day spa, I thoroughly enjoyed a pot of tea and pastries between treatments. lesbainsdemarrakech.com
In Essouira, a picturesque seaside town on the western coast of Morocco (known as one of the best places to surf in Africa), I had a wonderful tea service at the posh hotel Heure Bleue Palais. heure-bleue.com
Daniela Cubelic, Special to The Globe and Mail
Published on Wednesday, Jan. 04, 2012 4:33PM EST
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