This is Jamaa El Fnaa square, the 1,000-year-old setting of one of the greatest open-air entertainment shows in the world
At dusk, the giant expanse of the city’s L-shaped market place is a simmering, overheated cauldron of excitement and anticipation.
This is Jamaa El Fnaa square, the 1,000-year-old setting of one of the greatest open-air entertainment shows in the world and it’s been pulling in the crowds for centuries.
Virtually the entire arena, surrounded on three sides by the towering walls of the Medina (old city), is the stage for a host of traditional Moroccan performers.
Musicians, snake charmers, acrobats, folk singers, dancers – including a troupe of boys in drag – and teeth pullers who don’t offer anaesthetic, vie for attention and cash.
Some are there all day, but when we visited, there was little sign of them wilting as the mercury rose along with the noise level.
More people joined the crowds and those watching from packed rooftop cafes and restaurants in what resembled an endless, slow-moving human lava stream.
It’s one that flows all day, every day through the main entrance to the Medina past lines of horse-drawn carriages and into the square.
There is no organisation here. No compere or interval – it just happens.
Soaking up local culture is rewarding but thirsty work. With the nearest cafes out of sight on the other side of the square the question was: had we the energy to battle our way to the fruit juice stalls, never mind find a beer?
A water seller, animal skin bag filled with the precious liquid worn across his body like a satchel, came into view.
We couldn’t miss him with that huge multi-coloured tassled hat and the musical ringing of brass drinking vessels that festooned his red knee-length gown.
Chaps like this fellow used to walk noisily from village to village.
Now they make more money posing for photographs than quenching thirsts. Crowds gather around storytellers, who regale them with tales in a language few probably understand.
This is no more than a snapshot of what has convinced UNESCO to designate the square as a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity”.
Quite a mouthful, but then this is quite a place. Just be careful with money.
Take a picture of a snake charmer and you will be asked to part with a fortune. Be firm, look them in the eye, give them a few coins and march away.
Marrakech was on the 1960s hippy trail’s “must go there” list and has been a favourite of VIPs and statesmen for generations.
Sir Winston Churchill loved the place and often came to do a spot of painting. More recently, Lady Gaga flew in to stay at one of its swankiest hotels.
“At dusk, the giant expanse of the city’s L-shaped market place is a simmering, overheated cauldron of excitement and anticipation.”
And there is more to enjoy here than the culture, history and art as we discovered during a long weekend break after flying out with EASYJET.
We stayed at the Mosaic Palais Aziza and Spa, a boutique hotel in an exclusive area where neighbours include kings, Middle East leaders and millionaires.
I had a ground floor room with just a low fence separating it from the swimming pool – real luxury.
I joined one of sous chef Rachid El Amrani’s master classes, learning the secrets of preparing a perfect seven-bowl Moroccan salad.
After an open-air breakfast by the hotel pool we set off for the Souk, weaving through the rabbit warren of narrow shop-lined streets.
Early morning is the perfect time. The crowds haven’t arrived, the sellers are relaxed and pleased to see potential customers, so the chances of getting hassled are lowered. But don’t forget to haggle.
Eating out is no problem around here as there are plenty of good restaurants, many with rooftop terraces, like the excellent Le Foundouk.
There are nightclubs in Marrakech but these are thin on the ground and most are attached to major hotels where the drinks are very pricey.
For a change of scenery and tempo it is hard to beat heading up into the the foothills of the Atlas Mountains to Les Terres d’Amanar, an eco adventure centre on the edge of Tobkal National Park.
Less than an hour’s drive from the city it is popular with locals as well as tourists. Go for a swim, take a nature walk, do a spot of trekking or pick up some Berber handicrafts.
Or, after a stroll and lunch, settle down in an easy chair on the terrace with its sensational view of the mountains.
And rest up a while for another dose of Medina madness.
By Tony Busby/Published 4th August 2013
