While many western tourists are reluctant to visit the Middle East, Morocco escaped much of the region’s trouble to remain viable.
John Scott Lewinski
Morocco offers a rare glimpse of Middle Eastern life with plenty of proper accommodations.
The North African country of Morocco is one of few to have escaped the Arab Spring. Its liberal King, Mohammed VI instituted political reforms almost instantly after the uprising in Tunisia. Instead of clinging to power, he diluted it, drawing up a new constitution, giving Morocco’s Prime Minister and parliament more muscle.
King Mohammed VI also wasted no time holding free and fair elections, pre-empting an uprising.
Things aren’t perfect; the press is still censored, and there are a host of reasons why Moroccans aren’t content, but the country is stable, and warmly embraces tourists.
Just three hours from London, Marrakech is a city of souks filled with colorful wares and assertive, but friendly merchants who encourage tourists to haggle for goods, always finishing a deal with a handshake and a smile.
Berber, Arabic and French are the spoken languages, but most people speak English.
The Atlas Mountains are an easy day trip, and the coastal city of Essaouira makes a good sun break for two or three days.
As the sun sets in Marrakech, the Djemaa El-Fna Square, with its criss-crossing strung lights, is transformed into a carnival of food. Rows of vendors set up tables and chairs in front of their makeshift cooking stalls, each serving a different specialty. Some prepare fresh seafood, others the famous Merguez sausages, or snails in saffron sauce.
Eating is communal, and prices vary. Our meal of chicken brochettes, grilled eggplant and peppers, olives, salad and bread came to $12 — a bargain for the sheer pleasure of soaking up the vibrant atmosphere. Others serve pricier three-course meals.
Dessert is delivered on wooden carts, where, for $4-5, you fill a small box with date, fig, and almond filled cookies. Moroccan families mix with tourists, and hypnotic music adds to the authentic experience.
Just beyond the square, sits the Grand Bazaar. Each neighborhood has its own souk, many specializing in different things: spices, hardware, textiles, etc. The Grand Bazaar is the most touristy, and commands the highest prices, but is a good place to start.
Marrakech is divided into two parts: the Medina, the old city and the Gueliz, or Ville Nouvelle, new city. The Medina is full of character and serves up the real deal, while Gueliz gives a glimpse of modern Morocco, with fast food restaurants and multi-national chains.
The Medina is filled with Riads and dars, which are old Moroccan houses, each with an internal courtyard. Most riads have gardens, while dars tend to be simpler, but no less charming.
Staying in a riad or dar is a tourist attraction in itself. Behind the wooden doors, are slabs of marble and stone, elaborately cut like prisms, creating a kaleidoscope of light on blank walls. Each room is unique, and inspires an imaginative journey of what life was like when the home was first inhabited. The most wonderful part is that luxury matters less here. Good service and comfort are top priorities. Riads and dars so unique, it will be a memorable stay whether it’s three stars or five.
Just be warned there are no elevators.
Two and a half hours’ drive from Marrakech is Essaouira. The 18th century port city and haven for golfers, spa-lovers and sun-worshippers provides a respite from the hustle and haggling of Marrakech. Essaouira’s highlight is its small Medina, more charming than Marrakech, and its “get away from it all” resorts. Pairing the two cities for 5-7 days is a perfect combination of city adventure and chill-out time.
Where to Stay – Marrakech:
Riad Dar White:
Situated in the Kasbah, the quieter, more village-like neighborhood on the edge of the Medina, Riad Dar White is simple and contemporary. The small, boutique property lies at the end of a narrow, lit alleyway, providing quiet and calm. The triangular pavement just before the alley is our landmark, where young boys use anything they can find to play soccer, and locals line up to buy bread from under a tiny awning. Opposite, the bright blue and green tiled Kasbah mosque guides our way back from the old city.
Inside, rooms are a soothing blend of ochre brick inlay floors and ivory marble tiles. Bed linens are fine cotton, beds are firm, and towels thick and large. The Riad has been decorated by someone with an excellent eye. Rugs and other interiors are the kind you’ll want to take home. Breakfasts at dars and riads are typically taken on the rooftop, all with great views, many with gardens. The French toast here is the highlight — golden brown French bread with a soft, melting, eggy center.
Dar les Cigognes:
This traditional riad is in the Mellah, a neighborhood compared to Paris’ Le Marais. The Jewish area is still home to a small community of worshippers and a well-preserved synagogue. Just beware of locals who offer to take you there and suggest stopping at a spice shop along the way. They’ll be expecting extortionate prices be paid as gratuity.
Rooms at Dar les Cigognes are stocked with a thick book providing helpful information about the area, and the city. Bright blue and green inlaid tiles floor the beautiful bathroom with its tea-stained walls and massive tub.
The property is connected to two others, and hosts a cooking school for guests, taught by traditional Moroccan cooks. Guests can accompany the head chef to the daily markets returning to cook a meal, or focus on bread, pastry, yogurt, or other local dishes.
Four Seasons:
About 10 minutes’ drive outside the old city, come to the Four Seasons for its pop-up Speakeasy bar. The atmosphere begins the minute you step out of the elevator, arriving in a laundry room, walls plastered with WANTED signs. Step inside a door purposely left ajar, to hear Big Band jazz and bee-bopping music fill the room, putting everyone in a good mood. The music inspires toe-tapping, hip-swinging and a soundtrack you’ll want to take home (if only they’d make a few copies). It must have taken a professional set designer to get this fantastic recreation of America just right. Tommy guns and retro makeup kits are the bathroom props and cocktails are based on original prohibition favorites.
Sofitel Essouira Mogador Golf & Spa:
On the edge of Essouira, the Sofitel resort stays true to its French roots, with delicate, warm, pistachio macarons as a welcome. Decor incorporates nature with sanded down trees populating the lobby. Stumps serve as sitting stools and tables.
Splashes of sunshine bounce through the interior, rooms all come with a view of the sea. Spaces are light, airy and modern, accented in white, cobalt blue, oranges and yellows — mirroring the landscape in the most uplifting way. Beds are covered in soft linens, and cloud-like feather beds. The resort offers a wide range of rooms, from simple, to deluxe with terraces large enough to fit entire couches, and villas with private pools. The large, heated pool beckons after sunset when Moroccan lamps line its perimeter.
This being a French hotel, the spa menu is larger than the restaurant menu, with treatments for kids and teens. There are daily gym classes, and a kids club and the sea is the backdrop for the Gary Player 18-hole course.
Getting There:
Roadlink
Some of Morocco’s best sights are most easily reached by car. Several transport companies provide 4x4s and drivers, but its important to select a reliable, English speaking service. Roadlink offers smaller cars as well as four-wheel drives, vans and entire buses. Owner Abdel couldn’t have been easier to deal with, or more friendly. Due to unexpected circumstances, we had to change our journey three times, yet got no hassle from Abdel. In fact, he was in touch with us after our journey to find out whether our trip was going okay. Drivers spoke excellent English, and were invaluable when we needed to stop at a pharmacy.
