Eurasia Review
Courtyard, Al-Qarawiyyin University, Fes. Morocco, photo by Khonsali
The 12-centuries-old city of Fez is known as Morocco’s spiritual capital, but it also has huge relevance for millions of West Africans. They come in droves – from Senegal, Mali, Niger and Nigeria – to worship at the tomb of a North African holy man, Sheikh Ahmed Tijani.
Senegalese men in flowing twilight blue Boubous mingle with Moroccans in hooded Djellabas at the impressive gate of the Zaouia, or religious centre for the Tijani brotherhood, in the narrow and winding streets of Fez’s old town.
Sheikh Tijani, who was born in Ain Madhi in what is now Algeria, is reputed to have learnt the Koran by heart by the age of seven, and given his first fatwa (religious instruction) at 15.
He founded the Sufi brotherhood at the end of the 18th Century – using the Gregorian calendar – or towards the start of the 13th Islamic century.
Muslims flocked to hear the teachings of the holy man, who had spent long periods meditating in the Sahara Desert.
The Moroccan sultan of the time, Moulay Slimane, supported Sheikh Tijani, aiding his rise.
Tijani disciples from neighbouring countries spread the word and now there are millions of his followers in West Africa.
Senegalese community
Tijanis, both well known and anonymous, come to Fez to pray at Sheikh Tijani’s tomb, often on their way to Mecca, explains Abdellatif Begdouri Achkari, a Tijani, and a senior member of Morocco’s Islamic affairs ministry.
“Islam came to West Africa from Morocco, so it’s normal there is such a strong spiritual relationship,” he said.
“Sheikh Ahmed Tijani is a great figure in Morocco, and the links we have with people from other countries are not political, they are spiritual.”
Round the corner from the Zaouia, Sheikh Tijani’s last resting place, a small community of Senegalese people live.
Many of these pilgrims contribute to the upkeep of the Zaouia.
“Disciples of the Tijani brotherhood provide everything that is necessary here – they pay for water and electricity, carpets, everything that is needed,” explains Zoubir Tijani.
“They aren’t obliged to, but they do it to make everyone feel at ease.”
Habib Diallo, a Senegalese student in Fez, is a regular visitor to the Zaouia.
He and other Senegalese meet on Thursday evenings to chant Allah’s name, to prepare themselves for the Friday prayer.
He says the fact so many Senegalese are Tijanis has contributed to the close relationship his country has with Morocco.
“The Moroccans respect us because we are disciples of Sheikh Ahmed Tijani,” he says. “It’s a very big advantage.
“Everyone knows there is a very nice relationship between Senegal and Morocco, and Sheikh Ahmed Tijani is at the centre of that.”
