Chicago Tribune
Among U.S. cities, Chicago is no slouch at takeout. And wine with any of it? Sure.
But what to sip with Middle Eastern cooking, that prototypical pastiche of this-and-that? What sort of wine tastes best with pita swaddling falafel, or even tabbouleh, baba ghanoush, and cukes and yogurt?
For any or all of that, I appreciate the lavish buffet of choices at either of the city’s Sultan’s Market locations. The wine, I get at home.
An adage long governing wine and food pairings stipulates “matching regional foods with regional wines,” the theory being that the two grew up together and consequently taste tasty together. That makes sense with Chianti and pizza, but what country does Middle Eastern wine come from?
It comes from Lebanon, or Israel, even Morocco at a stretch. Such wines aren’t easily found in the U.S., but they’re scattered about. Or use wines that mimic what folk in the Middle East drink with their cooking, such as lemonade, tea with mint, tangy fruit juices and water of course. That is, wines that are snappy with acidity, quiet of flavor, cleansing and refreshing.
The wines
2009 Musar Rouge “Jeune” Bekka Valley Lebanon: This blend of syrah, cinsault and cabernet sauvignon is the “younger,” more approachable sibling to Serge Hochar’s famed Chateau Musar red; no oak, accent on red fruit flavors, with a touch of earth; it’s delicious and lively. $17-$20
2009 Domaine des Ouleb Thaleb Thalvin-Graillot “Syrocco” Syrah Morocco: A joint effort of Morocco’s wine giant Thaleb and Alain Graillot, northern Rhone wine master; smoky and berrylike as syrah often is, but paler and with more acidity than found in France; good choice for eats as it’s cleansing. $17-$20
2009 Yarden Chardonnay Odem Vineyard Golan Israel: Of the plush, juicy, tropical fruit style, with sufficient refreshing acidity to do good battle with salt and fat; kosher. $19
— Bill St. John, special to Tribune Newspapers
.
