Metro.co.uk
Martin G Hewitt
I’m sitting on the roof terrace of a beautiful, historic riad just inside the walls of Marrakech’s world famous Medina.
My legs are beyond dead, my body cries out for bath and bed, my mind is blown.
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Beyond the front door one of the planet’s most unique cities is alive with sounds, sights, and smells, and night is a chaotic scene of snake charmers, monkey handlers, spice sellers and all.
Such exoticisms are of no interest, though; the only thing I want to do is close my eyes and relive the last two days.
Along with seven other souls I now consider real friends, including our guide, this wretched body has just returned from dragging itself up and down 13,671 ft of valley, hill, cliff, and mountain side, passing remote berber settlements, historic shrines, and pain thresholds along the way.
Summiting Mt. Toubkal – the highest peak in both the Atlas Mountains and North Africa – is an achievement that’s impossible to countenance, yet definitely doable with no previous experience thanks to Much Better Adventures, which specialises in short but stunning expeditions into the wilds.
The idea is to tackle bucket lists without people having to take much time off work.
For me this means a long weekend of staggeringly epic proportions, so here are 10 things you need to know about the greatest three-day trip you’re likely to take.
Decide when you want to go, and prepare
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
In spring the mountain itself is still snow-capped, but the powder harder to walk on than in the colder months, when the elements can be more ferocious.
Summer, meanwhile, offers much warmer weather, but heat replaces freezing winds or melting ground as the major challenge.
Whichever season appeals, the absolute minimum you should take is a warm hat and gloves, (genuinely) waterproof windbreaker, robust hiking trainers or boots with high ankles, several pairs of thick socks, thick underwear, breathable (and ideally sweat-absorbing) walking t-shirts, comfortable trousers, waterproof over-trousers, more than one winter jumper, and a torch with a battery pack.
The scene is set immediately
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
Saturday morning starts with a two hour drive from Marrakech to reach the start point, Imlil, which is the sort of place where photo opportunities come as standard.
Beneath a covering of trees, buildings whisper ‘rural Morocco’, men guide donkeys up steep roads, handmade rugs blow in the gentle breeze – life is slow here, and there’s plenty to soak up, so get soaking at your own pace.
Next is the smaller settlement of Aroumd – the last real village en route – where homes hang perilously on the side of ravines, random cars make their way along dusty cliff tracks and locals stand in shady doorways offering nods of encouragement to those heading for higher ground.
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
Not having a camera would be a crime.
Once beyond the villages things get serious
After Aroumd, it’s quite literally all uphill.
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
A rocky plain indicates what’s to come – once a lush valley until a flood ripped the vegetation away, even on this comparatively flat surface the going is difficult because the ground is so uneven.
The views are stunning, though, with a glimpse of snow in the distance, and verdant green agricultural terraces flanking us to the right, adding to the feeling this is now the route less travelled.
Sidi Chamharouch is like nowhere else
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
A handful of shacks act as seasonal bases for shepherds and farmers around Sidi Chamharouch, a small shrine nestled amongst huge rock formations alongside a river.
The landscape has already become imposing, making for a genuinely unique spot to rest beneath a canvas canopy and enjoy the flatbreads, fresh salad, lamb tagine, and fried mackerel delivered to us by mules.
Ahead you can see Toubkal – now a daunting edifice making the preceding hike look like a Sunday stroll.
Reality kicks in at the refuge
Our home for the evening (Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
Post-feed the flat sections become less frequent, and the temperature more difficult to judge, so it’s a relief when an Alpine-style refuge, our Base Camp, finally appears on the horizon.
A weather-beaten stone sanctuary, it’s the only sign of human life across a panorama that makes you feel truly insignificant.
Watching night close in from the entrance is a gripping natural drama, the mood of the place suddenly changing from rural hostel to essential safe haven.
Retreating back inside sodden socks are hung by a log fire that makes shadows dance on wood beams, more hearty stewed meats are served, with accompanying mint tea, before the generator powers down and the last real light anyone here will see until dawn vanishes.
Every room plunges into complete darkness, so I’m grateful my clothes have already been carefully organised and positioned for the blackest of mornings to follow.
Waking on Sunday is sheer madness
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
The alarm goes off at 4.15am, and if it weren’t pitch black in the room I’d be able to see my own breath.
I’m told the next stage is a killer, a climb of around 3,000ft up the kind of slopes many would prefer to ski down.
More intimidating still, we’re off well before daybreak, so it’s impossible to see more than a metre or so ahead.
Within minutes I’m helped across a gushing stream pouring from an ice cave, then bouldering towards the first snowy incline, which is littered with countless lights from others aiming for the summit, a picture which is at once pretty and eerie.
Sunrise is incredible
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
The plan is to reach the top of Toubkal in time for the first rays, but that proves too demanding for my party.
Don’t think for a second this detracts from the spectacle, though.
Colours shift from second to second as the sun rises ever-higher, hitting different sections of the scenery and bouncing from the brilliant white snow that’s suddenly everywhere, making sunglasses a must.
Jaw dropping doesn’t come close, but such beauty comes at a cost – the going gets ever tougher as oxygen levels fall. Short, sharp breaths become obligatory and regular stops necessary.
The guides are amazing
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
Our man in the know, Muhammed, and his colleagues Jose and Abdullah who spend most of the trip in front of the pack with the supplies, are veritable angels sent from heaven, which at 12,000ft feels far closer than it has before.
The guide’s knowledge of the region, its flora, fauna, culture, and history is vast enough to offer fascinating insights on the first day, when talking wasn’t a foolish waste of air.
Now his finest characteristic is endless patience, not pressuring any stragglers, simply guiding them through the fastest and safest routes to success based on what he has learnt from more than 150 treks to the top.
Get used to staring at your feet
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
The final push to reach the ridge – the pathway to the summit-proper – is near-vertical, and walking this section is neither pleasant, nor easy.
Motivation diminishes with every step, and lifting my head to appreciate the setting becomes too much effort. This is where digging deep is the only option, and that means focusing on putting one foot in front of the other.
Things don’t get much better once at the ridge – the narrow track hugs the rock face while gradually rising to the very top of Toubkal, and looking down, or losing an inch of footing, is enough to turn you white.
The summit is something else
(Picture: Martin G Hewitt)
All those panicked moments next to sheer edges, demoralising stretches where Toubkal looks like it will never end, and extreme weather are immediately worthwhile when I finally take a seat atop the world, along with a few nuts, an orange, and warm mint tea from Muhammed’s bag of provisions.
The summit can’t help but summon strong emotions – lesser peaks below look like mere hills despite being far taller than anything in the UK, most birds soar beneath me, where clouds are also forming.
It’s hard, if not impossible, to feel overwhelmed at both the beauty of the world, and the determination required to make it here.
Trying not to dwell on the fact there’s still a six hour mission ahead to get back to yesterday’s starting point, and the lift to Marrakech, I feel my heart skip a beat or two, and eyes well up.
Getting there
We travelled with Much Better Adventures, a specialist holiday company offering itineraries across the world, including the ‘Climb Mount Toubkal and Explore Marrakech‘ weekend adventure. The experience costs £269pp including guiding, accommodation, transfers and meals, excluding flights.
The award-winning travel startup launched a crowdfunding campaign on Crowdcube on November 1st, 2017.
Top image credit: Getty.
