The best way to feel on top of the world is to go there… and Morocco’s Atlas Mountains certainly make you feel among the gods.
Standing on the balcony of the Kasbah du Toubkal lodge, looking up at a huge sky of twinkling stars, it seems incredible that just a few hours ago I was in London.
The Kasbah seems like another world… something out of another century.
We had arrived after dark, having hired a driver in Marrakech for the four-hour trek to the village of Imlil.
We completed our journey on foot up the mountainside, our bags carried on the back of a donkey.
The minute we pushed open the large wooden door, we realised what a special place the Kasbah is. The famous North African Berber hospitality kicked into action straight away, as we were served mint tea and dates dipped in milk.
Restoration
The Kasbah, formerly a summer palace that had fallen into disrepair, was sensitively restored in the nineties and is now run by a Berber and European partnership.
The setting is magnificent… high above a waterfall-fed stream where villagers bathe and do their laundry and opposite a handful of adobe villages that cling to the rocky mountain face of the snow-dusted Mount Toubkal.
A joint venture between a UK tour company (Discover Ltd) and the local Berber community, the Kasbah is involved in fund-raising for the local community and providing employment. A share of the profits goes straight into local projects.
The rooms range from the very basic keenly-priced dorms to ultra-luxurious suites.
Happily we were in one of the more lavish rooms with huge beds, a private balcony and under-floor heating. Hand-woven carpets and blankets, intricately carved woodwork and oleander branch panelled ceilings added to the atmosphere. My first sight of the Kasbah in daylight took my breath away. It’s no surprise Martin Scorsese chose it as the location for Kundun, his film about the Dalai Lama, when he converted the building into a Tibetan monastery.
But this was no time to stand around gawping at the scenery because, like the other trekkers from all corners of the globe who converge at the Kasbah, we were there for action. Our goal was to spend the night at the Azzaden trekking lodge, a mere six-hour hike away.
While other intrepid adventurers were bound for more ambitious projects over several days, we set off with our guide and muleteer Mohammed, plus a donkey.
It was no walk in the park, with its steep inclines and tricky terrain to reach the summit.
But it was worth it for the scenery… untouched glades and groves with beautiful wild flowers and spectacular views down the valley.
At last we could flop on the grass and enjoy a delicious picnic of fresh salads and meatballs, all prepared by Kasbah chefs.
But our adventure wasn’t yet over… we still had to get to the lodge, facing some precarious moments while trekking across ice. Thank goodness for my walking poles.
Finally we arrived and made straight for the hammam, a steam bath, the perfect treat for tired and aching legs.
After all that activity, a change of pace seemed appropriate so our next stop was at Tigmi, a lush spa hotel in the middle of a desert.
It’s a mass of courtyards and gardens, with two beautiful pools. Even in November, it was hot enough to sunbathe and swim. And a vigorous Swedish massage helped to sort out my post-trek aches.
The view of the Atlas Mountains from the sunny terrace was incredible. And here I was happy to stay, this time admiring my surroundings from a comfy lounger…
If you want Moor
Combine your New Year’s fitness drive with an activity holiday in scenic Morocco:
Explore the High Atlas Mountains’ dramatic scenery with a nine-day walking tour. The moderate-paced tour ends at the ancient port of Essaouira. Depart Heathrow on March 30 with Explore from £695 per adult and £546 per child. Call: 0844 499 0901
Cycle from Marrakech to the rugged flat-topped High Atlas Mountains. World Expeditions’ tour ends in Paradise Valley after a trek through limestone gorges and water ravines. Prices from £850pp.
Start the day with a 90-minute yoga classfollowed by two surfing lessons at the Surf Yoga and Spa resort at Paradise Plage, Agadir. Three-day B&B break from £635pp flying from Gatwick.
Climb Jebel Akilm on a five-day trek which ends in the city of Taroudant. Eightday break costs from £649pp. Call Exodus on: 0845 564 4335
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When to go
The best time to visit is between March and November, but December-February you can enjoy crisp sunny days… and cold nights.
Did you know?
The Imlil Village Association is funded by an accommodation levy at Kasbah Du Toubkal, which has so far built a hammam, the region’s first community steam bath, and helped build a a school for 80 children.
Getting around
It’s fairly cheap to hire drivers and vehicles for the day… expect to pay about £60. Make sure you go for a four-wheel drive if you’re heading for the mountains.
Getting there
EasyJet flies to Marrakech, as does Ryanair, Royal Air Maroc, British Airways and Thomsonfly.com
Book it
Stay at the Kasbah Du Toubkal in a dormitory from £36, doubles start at £140. A standard package for a two-day ascent of Toubkal, including guide, cooks, mules, muleteers, accommodation and food, costs £200.
