Posted by Lindsay Griffin
The crux ice section of Fountain Gully, Afella south-east face. Olly Metherell
Previously unreported is a BMC approved American-British trip to the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, its aim to continue a relatively recent development of high standard winter climbing.
American Andrew Stokes-Rees, who over the last few years has climbed several ice routes in Toubkal Massif, joined James Mehigan and Olly Metherell for an ascent of an ice/mixed route on the south-east face of Afella (4,015m).
Afella lies in the southern half of the Ouanoukrim Chain, which rims the west side of the Mizane Valley opposite Toubkal (4,167m). The base here is the popular Neltner Hut (3,207m) below the Normal Route on Toubkal, accessed from the Berber village of Imlil.
As a 4,000m peak Afella is one of the most frequented in the area, with an easy, though circuitous, ascent that involves crossing a col on the main ridge and finishing up the west flank.
Leaving the Neltner Hut on ski, it took one and a half hours to reach the foot of the wall. An 80m approach of Scottish III led to a snow slope and belay in a corner, where the difficulties began.
Stokes-Rees led the next pitch, 40m of mixed climbing in a corner-chimney system on the usual less than perfect High Atlas rock. This went at around Scottish 7, the crux section probably equating to VS 4c rock.
Metherell then led through, following a steepening ice ramp. The vertical crux led into a deep gully. Metherell was forced to use a bit of aid on this pitch and the route still awaits a free ascent.
A final 25m of Scottish 4 led to the end of the route at a large snowpatch, from which the team made a rappel descent. Due to water just below the surface in the upper part, the name Fountain Gully seemed appropriate (Scottish 7, WI5, and aid).
This completes Metherell’s quest to climb a new route on each of the seven continents. His list includes: A new direct route up the south face of New Zealand’s Mt Aspiring (Australasia); the first ascent of Goya Peak in India’s Miyar Valley (Asia); a new winter route on Ben Nevis (Europe); first ascent of Tower Gully in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge (North America); first ascent of Huaytapallana in Peru (South America); and the first ascent of Mt Cloos (Antarctica).
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