Sugar and spice and all things nice in Morocco

MARRAKECH has become a key tourism destination over the past few decades. Not only is it a holiday hot spot but it also attracts filmmakers, most recently forming the backdrop for the second Sex and the City film and also appearing in episodes of TV series Made in Chelsea this year.

Perhaps it’s because Marrakech is one of the few places that manages to tick all the boxes – combining true tradition with the modern luxuries of 21st century living.

Arriving inside the city’s central walls, known locally as the Medina, you are thrust right into the epicentre of typical Moroccan living. In one direction a mule, pulling a crate of local produce might go by, and in the other you might catch a glimpse of locals baking bread in one of the community ovens.

Navigating your way through the labyrinth of narrow alleyways to find your accommodation may seem like a bit of a task but when you arrive at the door to your hotel – in my case the Riad Dar Zaouia, part of the Angsana Riads collection – it will all seem worth it.

Entering these lovingly restored riads, which are scattered throughout the Medina, is a little like walking into a tardis – the small entrances open up to a stunning open air courtyard garden, which the rooms all face.

Riads are a traditional Moroccan house or palace. There are about 800 inside the walls of the Medina and in my opinion they are the only way to experience the real Marrakech.

Meaning ‘a place of retreat’ in Arabic, the 19th century Riad Dar Zaouia has just seven rooms. Each has its own unique style and showcase the traditional techniques and talents of local artisans. The communal areas are just as inviting with lit fires in winter (although Morocco is generally hot all year round, the temperature drops dramatically at night) and the rooftop terrace provides the perfect place to sit with a glass of wine or Moroccan tea (mint tea with lots of sugar) and enjoy the African sunshine.

Slightly closer to the Jemâa El Fna square (the main square), you’ll find Dar Fakir, which featured in both the SATC2 film and E4’s Made in Chelsea. This luxury guest house offers a friendly and relaxing place to stay – there are no locks on the bedroom doors, making it feel like a home from home.

The wonderful thing about these traditional houses is that because they don’t have any windows in the external walls, you can stay right in the heart of this bustling city, close to all the action but once you go into your hotel, you literally shut the door on the outside world and step into peace and tranquillity.

A typical day’s sightseeing in Marrakech could mean taking a Caleche (horse and carriage) through the Medina’s narrow streets or out into the palm groves that surround the city, a walk in the spectacular Majorelle Gardens, which were designed by Yves St Lauren, or a tour of the city’s ancient buildings, which can be arranged through local tour guides such as Travel Link (ask for Seddick Aassim, who impressed us everyday with his inexhaustible knowledge of the area).

An absolute must while in Marrakech is a visit to the Jemaa el Fna square, where you can watch the acrobats and musicians, fortune tellers and snake charmers or look down on the action from above in one of the roof top bar/restaurants, such as Cafe de France or the recently opened Le Salama. From here you’ll get great views of the snowcapped peaks of the High Atlas mountains and can watch the sun set behind the impressive Koutoubia Mosque.

Just off the square you’ll find the maze of souks, for which Marrakech is perhaps most well known. See the rows of craftsman using techniques of a bygone age, have a go at haggling for some locally-produced goods and watch businessmen bidding for leather in the daily auctions.

If you want to treat yourself to a bit of pampering after a long day sightseeing, many of the riads have spas, where you can experience the traditional Hammam massage – your body is pummelled, stretched, twisted, bent then subsequently scrubbed with a brush. Try La Sultana, which has an basement spa offering both classic and more modern treatments.

For those wanting to stay a little further out from the centre, Four Seasons Marrakech, which opened in June, offers 40-acres of five star luxury outside the Medina walls. Taking inspiration from the nearby Medina, the hotel is a modern-take on traditional Moorish architecture interspersed with pavilions, sunlit swimming pools, walkways and courtyards.

This hotel is well suited to families as it offers a fully supervised children’s facility and young adult centre but, thanks to its romantic setting and sumptuous spa, is also a great retreat for couples.

Whether you’re a traditionalist wanting to explore the real Morocco, a discerning traveller after a luxury break in the sun or you simply want to experience the best of both worlds – Marrakech, with its intoxicating mix, might just have it all.

Getting there:

• Rebecca travelled to Morocco with British Airways, which launched a new service from Gatwick to Marrakech earlier this year. One-way fares start at £69 including taxes, fees and charges, 23g baggage allowance, two pieces of hand luggage and complimentary drinks and a snack onboard. To book visitwww.britishairways.com.
• Last month, BA opened it’s new high-tech home at Gatwick’s North Terminal. In a bid to eliminate queues, the £73million extension features self-service kiosks and baggage platforms with BA staff on hand to help passengers through the check-in process. For more information visit www.britishairways.com.

Places to stay:

• Room rates at Angsana Riads Collection in Marrakech start at 156EUR per night including breakfast. For more information visit www.angsana.com or emailmarrakech@angsana.com.
• Room rates at the Four Season’s Marrakech start at 330EUR per night. For more information visitwww.fourseasons.com/marrakech.
• Room rates at Dar Fakir start at 110EUR per room per night. For more information, visitwww.darfakir.co.uk.
• For more information about La Sultana visitwww.lasultanahotels.com.

Other info:

• Guided tours of Marrakech can be arranged through Travel Link (www. travellink.ma).
• For more information on the Jardin Majorelle, visit www.jardinmajorelle. com.
• For more ideas on things to do in Marrakech visit www.visitmorocco.com.