Saturday, November 23

In photos: Horseback show keeps Morocco tradition alive

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Thousands of visitors descend on the Moroccan coastal city of El Jadida each July to attend the largest equestrian show in the kingdom – a breathtaking horseback performance that combines synchronised riding with decorative guns.

MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
The displays are a breathtaking horseback performance that combines synchronised riding with decorative guns.

The competitive event is known as Tabourida, or La’ab Al-Baroud, “The Game of Powder”. The display mimics and pays tribute to military parades performed by Arab and Berber tribes since the 15th century.

Thousands of visitors descend on the Moroccan coastal city of El Jadida each July to attend the largest equestrian show in the kingdom.
MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
Thousands of visitors descend on the Moroccan coastal city of El Jadida each July to attend the largest equestrian show in the kingdom.

It has become an integral display for many festivals across Morocco and has developed into a cultural tradition, surviving time and change and practiced today by hundreds of troupes – young and old, men and, recently, women. Famed French artist Eugene Delacroix popularised Tabourida on canvas in the 19th century, dubbing it “Fantasia”, and the name has stuck.

A boy hands a rifle to horse riders waiting for their turn.
  1. MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
A boy hands a rifle to horse riders waiting for their turn.

It is a risky display blending courage, skills and tradition. Professional and amateur groups travel to El Jadida from across the kingdom to perform, in their distinctive uniforms with traditional ornamentation, matching headscarves and embroidered chaps.

 The traditional horse riding show also known as Fantasia, in the coastal town of El Jadida, Morocco.
MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
The traditional horse riding show also known as Fantasia, in the coastal town of El Jadida, Morocco.

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Horse riders wait for their turn to take part.
MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
Horse riders wait for their turn to take part.

They gallop down an arena, brandishing their carved and patterned rifles, and, as the finish line approaches, they fire in unison. Gun smoke fills the air.

A vendor sells orange juice as people sit on a fence to watch a horsemanship show.

MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
A vendor sells orange juice as people sit on a fence to watch a horsemanship show.

Each troupe is led by a muqadim, a leader, usually the most experienced rider, who gives instructions and signals to keep the troupe working in synchronicity. The performance is judged by the enthusiasm of the crowd – the more synchronised the performance, the louder the cheers.

A troupe is engulfed by smoke after firing their rifles.
MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
A troupe is engulfed by smoke after firing their rifles.

It also is an expensive and dangerous sport. Arabian or Berber horses of the highest stock can cost as much as 300,000 dirhams (NZ$47,699). Inexperienced riders frequently fall, and troupes run the risk of hitting a barrier at the end of the track if they are unable to stop their horses in time.

Gun smoke in the air.
MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
Gun smoke in the air.

Still, the spectacle continues. By the end of the day, there is barely an empty seat as the competition intensifies and the sun sinks into the Atlantic Ocean. Boys climb old ramparts to get a top view and families cheer for the local troupe.

A horse feeds at a tent before it is prepared to take part in Tabourida.
MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
A horse feeds at a tent before it is prepared to take part in Tabourida.

A brief pause takes place as the call for sunset prayers is heard from the nearby minaret, and shortly after, a gallop – then a boom!

Tabourida is a traditional horse riding show also known as Fantasia.
MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
Tabourida is a traditional horse riding show also known as Fantasia.
A troupe charges firing their rifles during Tabourida.
MOSA’AB ELSHAMY/AP
A troupe charges firing their rifles during Tabourida.
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