A love of olives

Terra Savia harvest begins
A light olive harvest due to June rains has not dampened the spirits of Yvonne Hall, partner at certified organic winery Terra Savia in Hopland.

Olives and their flavorful oil had been a part of Hall’s life since she was a child growing up in the Dominican Republic. “My partner had an interest in growing things. Our clay soil is not very crop-friendly, but olive trees aren’t very picky,” she smiles.

Olive trees were imported from a small village north of Florence, Italy in 1998. “They were kept in a greenhouse for one year and we planted them in 1999,” she explains.

What Hall couldn’t have guessed was that olive oil was experiencing a renaissance in the United States, and their trees couldn’t have been planted at a better time. Terra Savia staff have begun their harvest of Tuscan varieties for themselves and other clients including the prestigious Rubicon eatery.

A forklift holding a bin of nearly 850 pounds of olives tips them onto a conveyor, where a powerful blower separates the fruit from leaves and twigs. “Because of the apple moth quarantine we have to take the leaves and twigs to the dump,” says Hall, noting that olives are a secondary host to the moth.

The olives proceed to a washing station. “We use only fresh water to remove dust and dirt,” she explains, noting that they prefer water over biodegradable washing agents to minimize any chemical exposure.

Vibrating motors remove the excess water from the olives, and they move along the conveyor to a large hopper, where they are inspected by visiting technician Giuseppe Monovoli. “Our equipment was imported from Italy and installed by Giuseppe, who spends one month with us every year. We really benefit from his experience because he stays on top of the technology and has worked throughout Italy, Morocco and Greece.”

The olives continue to one of two mills. Customers have their choice of using a three-wheeled, granite crusher on a stone base or a more efficient, modern-styled mill. “Some people like the romance of the stone crusher,” Hall notes. The olives move to an auger and enter a chamber where wheeled devices called melaxers crush pulp and pits to a slurry. “The rosy red color of the pulp is an indication of ripe fruit,” says Hall. At this point, the olives begin to exude a fragrant scent. “Depending on the variety, the olives have a different scent and a different flavor profile,” she explains.

Hall notes that growing olives complements grape growing. “It extends the season for workers and offers wineries another product that is uniquely theirs. And the olive trees are so beautiful,” she smiles.

The olives, now macerated into a paste, are released into a decanter where rapid spinning separates the solids from the vegetative water and oil. The solids are headed for the compost pile where they remain for one year, and then the pomace is picked up by Cold Creek Compost.

The remaining water and oil are moved to a separator, where temperature and spinning separate the proverbial oil and water. “We then allow the oil to settle naturally for 48 hours in a temporary container. Any suspended water settles to the bottom,” says Hall.

The oil is then transferred into a permanent tank for a few months until it is bottled, utilizing a semi-automatic bottling line which can produce 10 cases of oil per hour. “The nice thing for our clients is that we have climate-controlled storage. They can bring their olives to us and we will do the rest, right up to the labeling,” Hall notes.

Terra Savia’s large production facility doubles as a tasting area and gallery for local artists and craftspeople. Huge old-growth redwood plank tables and benches created by Ben Frey are the display area for one-of-a-kind wooden furniture and sculptures by Candida Sanlorenzo. Swiss artist Lynn Jamey has giant modernist works adorning the walls, and sculptures by Barbara Phelps are placed throughout the tasting area.

“Last year we had three single varieties of olive oil- Leccino, Frantoio, Moaiolo and our classic Tuscan, which is a blend of five varieties,” Hall explains. “The Frantoio is the most fruity. The Leccino is nutty and slightly more bitter and the Classic Tuscan is very smooth,” Hall notes. “People enjoy the Tuscan because they can feel it through the whole range of the palate.”

Terra Savia also produces wildflower honey- with flavors imparted from wild turkey mullein. They make olive oil soaps and a healing salve as well as their wines- two sparkling varieties, a Brut Rouge, several reds and their Blanc de Blanc- a recent winner at the Mendocino Wine Competition. They can be found at the Ukiah Farmer’s Market and seasonally at the Farmer’s Market in Mendocino. Terra Savia products are available at Ukiah Natural Foods, Mariposa Market in Willits and at the Westside Renaissance Market.

Near the tasting room, a quaint aviary contains a dozen beautiful King Pigeons. “These are birds which were being raised to end up as squabs for restaurants,” explains Hall. “A rescue organization provides foster homes because they are not suited for release. We’re the first winery that has a home for rescued pigeons,” Hall smiles, displaying the care and love for her birds that clearly translates to all the products coming from their orchard and vineyard.