With its windswept beaches, vibrant souks and winter sun, the Moroccan seaside town is at its most laid-back now, says Oliver Smith.
Why go now?
Finding winter warmth need not involve a costly, jet-lag-inducing trip to the Caribbean. Temperatures in Morocco – just three hours from London and in the same time zone – hover around 20C throughout November and December.
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Place Moulay Hassan
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While most visitors head for the mayhem of Marrakesh, or the rather charmless sun-and-sea resort town of Agadir, Essaouira offers something in between. The stalls and souks might not match up to those found in the former, but there’s plenty to peruse and it’s possible to do so without being harangued at every turn.
And while its beach is too windswept to compete with the latter’s, the town itself – a warren of whitewashed houses and crumbling, honey-coloured fortifications – has retained the sort of character that lured rock stars like Jimi Hendrix here in the Sixties.
If the breeze is blowing, take advantage with a wind- or kite-surfing lesson; the city is a beach-sports paradise.
There are no direct flights from Britain, so you’ll have to catch a taxi from Marrakesh, or go via Paris. Royal Air Maroc (020 7307 5800;royalairmaroc.com) flies to the Atlantic port from the French capital. Expect to pay between £50 and £100 for a taxi from Marrakesh Airport to Essaouira, depending on your bartering skills. EasyJet (easyjet.com) has two daily flights to Marrakesh from London Gatwick, from £30 each way.Where to staySpecial treat: The Heure Bleue Palais (1) (2, Rue Ibn Batouta;00212 5 2478 3434; heure-bleue.com), on the eastern edge of the atmospheric medina, is an imposing beacon of decadence from its glorious plant-filled atrium to its rooftop pool, and features a hammam, billiard room and private cinema. There’s a colonial flavour, with rooms kitted out in a variety of themes, from African to Oriental. Doubles from £240.Mid-range: The reliable chain Sofitel (sofitel.com) has two properties in the city, one on the beachfront and a second just outside of town. Unless you’re put off by the 10-minute bus ride, try the latter. At Sofitel Essaouira Mogador Golf & Spa (Domaine Mogador; 00212 5 2447 9400), there’s an enormous infinity pool, spa, dozens of smart, colourful rooms, a handful of good restaurants, and a golf course designed by Gary Player. It is surprisingly reasonable, too. Doubles from £80. On a budget: Cheaper options are plentiful, and the family-runHotel Riad Nakhla (2) (12, Rue d’Agadir; 00212 5 2447 4940), in the heart of the medina, is among the best. Don’t be deterred by the wonky entrance sign. You’ll be rewarded with simple but spacious rooms arranged around a peaceful atrium, and a pretty rooftop terrace. Rooms from £22. Hotel al Fath (3) (6/8 Rue Skala; 00212 5 2447 4492) is more affordable still. It is clean, functional, and has a rooftop terrace with some of Essaouira’s best views over the old city and the rugged coast. Doubles from £18.Day one8amBegin at Place Moulay Hassan (4) in the south-west corner of the medina, and head up the Rue Skala, which joins the northern side of the square and hugs the city walls.
The city will be slowly coming to life as stallholders meticulously arrange their stock of fezes, handbags and artwork. Catch a glimpse of the skilled local woodworkers (the industry has thrived here for hundreds of years), then pick up a hand-carved box for next to nothing.Follow the wall, passing through a pretty gateway, and take the slope on the right into the ramparts. The view north from the old bastion, as the morning light hits the town’s whitewashed walls, is breathtaking.
Admire the collection of 18th and 19th-century cannons (5) – and the Banksy-style artwork at the end of the path – before heading back into the medina.10amGo east, picking your way through the maze of streets. By now, any vendor worth his salt will have opened their stall, and you’ll find everything from ornate swords to bizarre musical instruments and artwork of varying quality. Gentlemen should consider a traditional shave (40 dirhams/£3) at one of the tiny barber shops; the silence inside, broken only by the sound of your own gulps as the razor passes inches from your jugular, makes for a memorable break from the bustle. Pause for a traditional Moroccan coffee (thick and strong) at any café with an empty table in the sun.
NoonAll roads south will take you to the photogenic port (6), where weather-beaten men mend their vessels, buckets of fish are tossed ashore for the highest bidder, and seagulls swoop to steal whatever morsels they can. One can easily spend hours here watching the drama unfold – remember to ask before taking anyone’s picture.
1pmBetween the port and Place Moulay Hassan lie a dozen or so wooden shacks, each with tables outside. Head to any, and for around £3 you’ll get a pile of salad, bread and the freshest fish available.
3pmIf it’s not too windy, take a towel to the beach and find a mixture of tourists, local families and grinning entrepreneurs hawking hash cakes. Birdwatchers should consider packing a pair of binoculars – the island of Mogador, off the coast, is a nature reserve that is home to the Eleonora’s falcon.
4pmHead back to the medina for a final browse, or to test the resolve of the shopkeeper who wouldn’t budge on his “final” price earlier. Keep the wolves from the door with an ice cream at Dolce Freddo (Place Moulay Hassan), or take in the artwork at the Galerie Damgaard (7) (Avenue Oqba lbn Nafiaa;galeriedamgaard.com).
7pmGo to Taros (taroscafe.com; 00212 5 2447 6407; mains from £6.20) on the Place Moulay Hassan. The open-air rooftop restaurant is on several levels, and is a picture after dark – all twinkling lights and medina views. The food is excellent, and features lots of locally caught fish, including a papillote of sea bream, ratatouille and crab and spinach gratin. It’s also one of the only venues where you can get a drink.
Day two
9amTake a taxi (no more than a couple of pounds) to Diabat, a mile or two south of the city. Several companies have set up shop here offering horse-riding excursions, including Equi Evasion (equievasion.com; 00212 6 6678 0561; from £12 an hour), run by an amiable German and her Moroccan husband. Its tours range from one-hour loops to six-day treks. Shorter trips take in the beach, home to the ruined Bordj El Berod watchtower, supposedly the inspiration for Jimi Hendrix’s song Castles Made of Sand, although the song was released two years before he visited Essaouira.
Get a last view of the sea with a late lunch at Le Chalet de la Plage, built in 1893 (Avenue Mohammed V; mains from £4.50), before heading for the airport.
City checklist
The free annual Gnaoua World Music Festival (festival-gnaoua.net) sees musicians from across the globe perform in various venues, most of them outdoors, in the city. It takes place from June 20 to 23 next year.
If you are determined to see Marrakesh, or sprawl on the sand in Agadir, both are just a couple of hours away by car.
For more information on the area, go to visitmorocco.com.
For comprehensive guides to 50 of the world’s top city break destinations, including Marrakesh, see telegraph.co.uk/destinations
