Morocco: so much to do, so little time

After reading the Lonely Planet guide to Morocco cover-to-cover three times in order to decide where to go, my supposed shortlist was not particularly short. I wanted to go everywhere. With only ten full days in the country, that just wasn’t going to be possible.

Morocco strikes me as the perfect place to travel extensively in a relatively short time. Obviously a week and a half isn’t enough, but give yourself a month and you could definitely fit a lot in. An extremely diverse country, between the lush Mediterranean coast in the north and the desert in the southwest you can make your way through crumbling medinas, modern cities, peaceful mountain villages and ancient ruins.

Marrakech is a logical starting point when flying in and out of England. You’ll be throwing yourself in at the deep end, but what better way to adjust to such a different culture? Until you visit Marrakech it’s impossible to understand the pull the city has on travellers. Even when you get there it might not be clear, but at some point you’ll realise how to make the city work for you. Morocco defies expectations, and there are no rules for what you should do or see once you’re there.

Moroccans enjoy some serious haggling, and they’ll suss you out as a naïve tourist the moment they see you. Offer to pay about a third of their asking price, or if they ask how much you’ll pay, suggest something ridiculously low. They asked, after all. If they won’t accept your final offer, move on to another lantern/tagine/rug shop and try again, although if no one accepts your price you’re being too optimistic. Always try the “I’m a poor student” line, they love it.

In Marrakech, visit the famous Djemma el-Fna during the day for some orange juice on the way to the souqs (markets) and you’ll wonder what all the fuss is about; visit from 9pm and you’ll wonder whether you’ve travelled through time to a medieval camp. Grab a bite to eat at one of the food stalls and then head up to one of the roof cafes for a non-alcoholic drink and get a bird’s eye view of the spectacle.

Go out of your way to see the Bahia Palace, a cool sanctuary of trees, mosaics and white plaster, and the Jardin Majorelle, previously owned by Yves Saint Laurent. Like Marrakech, it’s impossible to describe it accuratelyand do it justice, so you’ll just have to trust me and go.

From Marrakech most places are just a bus journey away, and your riad, hostel or hotel will probably offer trips to the mountains, desert or the coast. Travelling in Morocco is easy by bus, but renting a car is a good idea if you’re planning a long stay. To the west is the weather-beaten Atlantic coast where you can surf, kite-surf, wind-surf and sail, especially in Essaouira. The further south along the coast you go the less ferocious the wind: seek out Surf Maroc in Taghazout for some more luxurious sunbathing and surfing.

Head to the mountains for some peace and quiet after the bustle of Marrakech. A day trip to a waterfall valley like the Cascades d’Ouzoud will suffice, or plan a trek and stay in local houses along the way. Camel rides in the desert and sleeping under the stars isn’t one to turn down, either.

In the north, explore the national parks between Fez and the coast, or visit the white and blue walls of Chefchaouen to seriously relax with other travellers. The northern coast is on the Mediterranean, with less wind and waves but miles of beaches for sunbathing and taking life at a much slower pace.

As important as it is to see palaces and gardens, the biggest part of visiting Morocco is to immerse yourself in the culture. Watch and talk to the people around you, and you’ll get a much better idea of what Morocco is than by visiting tourist attractions. Smile, drink mint tea, and don’t panic if you’ve done nothing all day but café-hop. No one can sight-see 24/7, after all.